The last day — walking out in the last light
Namibia · 2014 Day 31 of 31
31

Thirty-five kilometers, champagne in the dark

Thursday, 22 May 2014

We have not given up on the ninety-plus. The small pan near the border in the southeast — only young bulls. A big old bull a kilometer out in a clearing on the drive back — not him. The Jackpot Pan and the second pan — no bull worth the chase. So we walk south of the Jackpot, three and a half kilometers, to what Felix names Jackpot-the-Third. And there, waiting — a massive old-bull spoor from the prior evening, with young-bull tracks running with him.

We had not given up. We walked to the small pan close to the border in the southeast — only young-bull spoors. On the drive back on the dirt road, a big old bull at the edge of a clearing, a kilometer out. We stopped, glassed — not our bull. We hid the cruiser and walked to the Jackpot Pan: no decent spoors. We walked to the second pan from yesterday: cow, calf, young-bull prints only.

First light of the last day, day 31
The last day. The ninety-plus bull is somewhere in this country, we know

Felix decided we would go south of the Jackpot to a pan a bushman had mentioned. Three and a half kilometers on foot. He named it “Jackpot Pan the Third.” There we found what we had come for — a massive old-bull spoor from the prior evening. Two young-bull tracks ran with him for a while.

Tracking out of Jackpot Pan the Third
A massive print out of the third pan — and the last day to take it

Ten to nine, taking his line. Three hundred meters out, cold dung. He walked southeast, mostly on an elephant road, not stopping to feed — which told us he was traveling far. The two young bulls peeled off at five and a half kilometers. At thirteen and a half the bull entered a thicket, and then a raisin-berry patch, and began to feed. We lost him several times there, and then he joined a herd of cows and calves.

Into the raisin-berry thicket on the last day
Thirteen and a half kilometers in — and then the cows took him

Ten to three. We sent Chou up a tree to glass. He could not find them. We were a long way from the cruiser — three hours on foot if we followed our line in. We made the call to cut straight back through thick bush to head off the dirt road. It was the wrong call: three kilometers an hour in that stuff.

We turned north to cut the dirt road. An elephant road appeared and led us nearly straight to it. By the time we hit the cruiser it was pitch dark.

Walking out in the last light of the safari
Pitch dark at the cruiser — the longest, toughest day of the whole trip

Thirty-five point five kilometers for the day, including the three morning pans before we had even taken a track. The longest day and the hardest.

Back at camp — fire, shower, dinner
A long hot shower, a few glasses of chilled champagne, dinner — and the ninety-plus bull left to another safari

Back at camp. A long hot shower. A few glasses of chilled champagne at the fire. A good dinner with a fine bottle of French red. Already I was looking forward to the next safari, this coming July. Time passes quickly hunting elephants in the bush. This one had been hard and it had been honest and it had been, in its own way, successful. I could not wait to start again.

Last light on Nyae Nyae, safari over
The ninety-plus bull is somewhere in this country. He will still be here in July